Growing Grapes
GROWING GRAPES
THE PLANTING SITE Selecting and preparing
Choose an area with rich loam or sandy loam soil. Work up the area well so there is ample loose soil. Provide good drainage. Slightly ridging up or berming the planting row is beneficial.
SPACING
Plants should be spaced 6’ to 8’ apart. Row should be 8’ to 10’ apart.
PLANTING
The roots can dry out very quickly. Never allow them to become dry at any time. If possible, soak the roots briefly before or during planting. Keep moist during planting.
Grapes do best when planted in the upper topsoil level with roots outstretched. This is better than placing the roots in a deep hole that drops into the subsoil. Dig a small trench and spread out the roots. The roots can be planted at an angle in the topsoil area.
PRUNING: At Planting
Immediately after planting, cut down to 2 or 3 active buds. Within a few weeks, select the most vigorous of these and allow only a single vine to grow upward, removing all other throughout the first growing season. Train the shoot upward, using a stake or trellis system.
PRUNING: Mature Plant
Grapes bear fruit on current year’s growth and must be pruned to stimulate fruiting. The two most commonly used pruning methods are cane pruning and stick pruning. Both methods accomplish the same purpose, which is to remove excess or non-productive vines for production of high quality fruit. See pages 127-136 in Backyard Fruit Production for details on these pruning methods and ideas for trellises.
FERTILIZING
Do not fertilize the first year. Apply 1/2 lb. fertilizer (10-10-10 or equivalent) per plant the year after planting. Apply approximately one lb. per plant annually thereafter.
MULCH AND WEED CONTROL
Do not allow grass or weeds to compete with grape plants. Use a layer of composted mulch over the root system.
Cane Pruning
Cane pruning annually replaces the entire fruit-bearing cane with one that grew the current summer. After one season is completed, remove the entire length of the fruited cane except for 2-3 buds at the base, which form the renewal spurs for a new vine the following year.
Stick Pruning
This method consists of shortening or cutting back the newest growth of the current year to 2-3 buds. Stick pruning promotes a more dense foliage canopy and can be used where shade is desired. Compared to cane pruning, it is more time-consuming. Stick pruning is probably more suited for arbors.
Courtesy of Schlabach's Nursery. For more information, we recommend David Schlabach's book, Backyard Fruit Production, which we have available for purchase.