Growing Raspberries & Blackberries
GROWING RASPBERRIES & BLACKBERRIES
THE PLANTING SITE: Selecting and preparing
Choose an area with rich loam or sandy loam soil. It is ideal to add composted mulch or organic matter to the site. Work up the area well so there is ample loose soil. Provide good drainage. Slightly ridging up or berming the planting row is beneficial.
The pH of the soil should be in the 5.6 to 6.5 range. Avoid a site where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplant grew within the last 4 years. It is best not to have red and black raspberries in the same immediate area.
SPACING
Red raspberries space 18”-24”. Black raspberries space 24”-30” apart.
Blackberries space 36”-48” apart. Allow 6’-10’ between rows.
PLANTING
The roots can dry out very quickly. Never allow them to become dry at any time. If possible, soak the roots briefly before or during planting. Keep moist during planting. Do no plant too deeply. Generally about 1-2 inches deep is correct. Water well immediately after planting.
At planting, cut down the cane portion. Red raspberry and black raspberry transplants can be cut down so that only 8 to 12 inches remain. Black raspberry rooted tips can be cut to just about ground level. The top portion may not leaf out. What you want is new shoots that emerge from the root clump.
IRRIGATION
Water or irrigate 2 or 3 times weekly (1” to 2” rainfall per week). Cover newly planted raspberries with straw mulch or similar material to retain moisture.
FERTILIZING
Do not fertilize at planting. Apply 5 lbs. per 100’ row (10-10-10 or similar) 6-8 weeks after planting. The second year use 10 lbs per 100’ row. Use 5-10 lbs. lime annually on every 100’ row. Brambles respond well to good liming and fertilizing practices.
PRUNING
Brambles must be pruned to maintain a healthy, productive plant. Because of different plant habits, red and black raspberries are pruned with the different methods. Blackberries are pruned similar to black raspberries, except they are allowed to grow higher and have longer side shoots. For details on pruning and maintenance of brambles, see pages 145-154 in Backyard Fruit Production.
SUPPORT SYSTEM
A support system using staking or wire is recommended for black raspberries and blackberries.
PRUNING BLACK RASPBERRIES
Black Raspberries produce a crop for only one season on each cane. Remove the cane right after it has fruited, or you can wait to remove it until the following spring (it will then appear as a dead cane).
Shorten the long young laterals that come off the main cane to 6”-10” stubs or about 8-12 buds.
Thin out or reduce the number of canes to 4-6 strong growing stalks per clump or plant.
SUMMER TIPPING
To increase lateral growth for next year’s crop, pinch off the growing tips of the new canes during June through August once they reach the desired height of 3 1/2’ - 5’ tall.
PRUNING RED RASPBERRIES
Low Maintenance Pruning
Everbearing red varieties can be mowed off right down to the ground or as low as possible to eliminate any hand pruning. This removes all the old floricanes and you will have fruit only on the new growth in the following fall.
PRUNING BLACKBERRIES
Thornless Blackberries often suffer winterkill on the young growth. Prune out all dead stalks.
Remove laterals that hang onto the ground or are within 18 inches to the ground. Head the laterals back to 12 to 18 inches long. Thin out small diameter canes and leave only four to six per plant. Tie them together to form them onto a support or wire.
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THE PLANTING SITE
Choose a permanent location in full sun. Ideally, the area should be well drained with loose, worked-up soil. The planting spot should be free of grass and weeds. If needful, add lime to raise the soil to 7.0-7.2 pH. Adding bone meal or a source of phosphorus can also be beneficial. A small amount of fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or a similar organic source can be worked into the soil prior to planting. An amount of 3-5 pounds per 100 sq. ft. is generally ideal.
SPACING
Space each crown 12”-14” apart. Allow approximately 3’ between the rows. If you plan on keeping the rows cultivated, the spacing is subject to the method of cultivation.
PLANTING
The root crowns should be placed in a trench or planting furrow that is 8”-10” deep. (See diagram below) The crowns should be pointed upward and the roots spread outward. Cover them lightly with several inches of topsoil or a topsoil compost mix. Allow the crowns to start pushing growth. Then continue to fill the trench as the plant spears begin to grow through the soil. A good topsoil of compost/soil mix can be added continually into the trench. Fill the trench as the plant spears grow up to surrounding soil level.
FERTILIZING
A starter fertilizer can be incorporated into the soil prior to planting. Use an organic all-purpose low nitrogen compost fertilizer or a 10-10-10 garden fertilizer. Work well into the soil. Use 3-5 pounds per 100 sq. ft. In late summer (Aug-Sept) when the plants are well established, an additional fertilizer can be applied along each row. Add about 2 pounds to each 100 ft. of row. Side dress with lime as needed to maintain a soil pH lever of 7.0-7.2.
Courtesy of Schlabach's Nursery. For more information, we recommend David Schlabach's book, Backyard Fruit Production, which we have available for purchase.